NICAS Handbook

Appendices

Summary of log book requirements

Level Top rope climbs Belays Boulder problems Lead climbs Other
1 10 10 – – –
2 25 25 some – –
3 30 – 20 – Progress one full top rope grade
4 10 at F5c (F5+) or above 30 lead belays – 30 at F5a (F5) or above –
5 10 at F6b or above 50 showing progression 50 at F6a or above – using three different climbing walls Progress one full lead grade
Experience of competition climbing

Level 5 background paper

Suggested topics for questions:

  • Sport/Trad ethics
  • Grades
  • Climbing technique
  • The Mountaineering Councils and ABC
  • Clubs
  • Competition climbing
  • Accessing climbing wall info
  • Accessing crag/rock climbing info
  • Rock types/style of climbing
  • Instructing qualifications and the Mountain Training Boards
  • The safety chain and basic fall factor theory
  • Climbing equipment and PPE ratings
  • Safe training and managing sports injuries
  • Types of rope and impact forces
  • Equipment design and life spans
  • Climbing terms
  • Climbing literature and websites

Level 5 assessment – sample written paper:

  • What is the difference between a redpoint and an onsight ascent?
  • Explain the difference between climbs with grades F6b and E3 5b.
  • List three things that the BMC does for climbers.
  • Where could you get information about climbing walls in your area?
  • What are the BRYCS? How could you get involved in them?
  • If you wanted to start climbing on rock what could you do to learn the skills?
  • Name 3 websites that could give you information about climbing in the UK.
  • What is a CWA? How could you become one?
  • Why might a 5 metre fall 40 metres up a climb be less serious than the same fall when only 20 metres up the same route?
  • The figures: 22kN may be stamped on a karabiner. What does this mean?
  • How would you treat an injured finger tendon?
  • What type of rope would you recommend a novice climber to buy for indoor climbing?
  • How do you know when to retire your harness?
  • What is a 'dyno'? What are the risks of doing one?
  • Name two climbing magazines and two classic climbing books.
  • List three things you can do to help prevent getting a climbing sports injury? 
  • What is the highest confirmed sport grade in the world at the moment?
  • Name five climbing walls in the UK where you can lead climb.
  • What’s the difference between stamina and power and how do you train for each?
  • List four different types of climbing you can do outdoors.

Training materials and workshops

  • Training articles by Neil Gresham on www.planetfear.com
  • BMC FUNdamentals workshops see BMC website
  • BMC climbing technique articles and films see BMC website
  • Training materials can be downloaded from the NICAS website in pdf format as they become available.
  • NICAS Course Director workshops and coaching courses may be provided by the NICAS Primary Centres. These centres can provide log books, information, advice and training for all levels of NICAS.

Bibliography

Training and instruction

  • Training for Rock Climbing – Bollen S (1994) Pelham Books
  • Performance Rock Climbing – Goddard D and Neumann U. Stackpole Books
  • Rock Climbing Peter – L (2004) MLTUK
  • Climbing Fit – Hurn M and Ingle P. Crowood Press
  • Masterclass Part 1: Technique and Training – Gresham N (2005) Crux films – DVD
  • Masterclass Part 2: Skills and Tactics for Sport and Trad – Gresham N (2005) Crux films –DVD
  • Gym Climb! – Long J. Chockstone Press
  • Belaying: Get it Right! – BMC
  • Performance Training – BMC
  • Climbing Outside – BMC (2005)
  • One Move Too Many: how to understand the injuries and overuse syndromes of rock climbing – Hochholzer T and Schoeffl V.(2003)
  • Sport Climb+ – Rockfax publications Berry A and McClure S.

Instructing schemes & guidelines

  • Site Specific Climbing Wall Guidance Notes – MLTE (2003)
  • Rock Climbing for Instructors – Richardson A (2001) The Crowood Press
  • Get a Grip. Health and Safety at Indoor Climbing Walls – HSE VHS video
  • National Guidelines – MLTUK (2004)
  • Climbing for All – Disability Awareness in Rock Climbing – MLTE/Don Mabbs (MLTE 2007)
  • Young People Climbing, Hill Walking, Mountaineering: A Parent–s Guide – BMC (2006)
  • Climbing Wall Manual – BMC (2008)

Equipment

  • Care and Maintenance – BMC (2000)
  • Choice, care & maintenance of pooled equipment – BMC (2006)

General

  • BMC Summit magazine, Scottish Mountaineer, Climb, Climber and Vertical magazines