NICAS Handbook

Guidance notes for Trainers and Assessors

General

All climbing walls are different. There are many different designs and systems of management and operation in existence all over the UK. It is the responsibility of the individual Course Directors to design the detail of their own training and assessment procedures in the light of their site specific resources (including time duration, ratios, entry restrictions etc). However these guidelines seek to clarify the standards required at each level of the scheme and to promote what is currently the consensus on good practice in climbing centres.

Logged climbs

Assessment criteria detailing the required number of climbs, boulder problems and grades achieved will be clear on the assessment log sheets. All logged climbs need to be completed without assistance from the rope and without rests. They may be pre-practiced in any fashion before being ascended in one push â€“ to be logged as one climb. In the case of smaller walls that do not have many different routes the climbs may be repeated but the candidate should show improvement each time. The log requirements stated are for each level; climbs logged for a previous level may not be counted again for the next level. Direct entry candidates however, do not need to complete the previous level’s log requirements but should be able to demonstrate the required proficiency to undertake the level that they wish to participate in.

As levels 1 and 2 are generally directly supervised by instructors the verification of logged climbs should be a simple affair. Climbs and boulder problems for levels 3-5 can be undertaken and logged unsupervised so verification is a more complex matter. Assessors need to satisfy themselves that the candidate has completed the minimum number of climbs in the spirit of the scheme. This may require some close questioning, cross referencing with climbing partners and/or other instructors. The purpose of the logged climbs/ problems is to consolidate skills and develop progression. An assessor can always ask a candidate to demonstrate their skills to substantiate their logged claims.

Time commitment

Guidance for suggested minimum direct training input for each level is detailed below. Note that these are minimums and trainers may feel that their candidates may require more training to cover the syllabus sufficiently or to raise skill levels. Guidance is also given below as to the expected minimum time commitment by the candidate for each level. This includes instruction and consolidation and will vary widely depending upon the maturity and ability of each candidate. However this column is intended to indicate the level of commitment required at each level.

Level	Min hrs instruction	Min hrs candidate commitment	Consolidation period
1	3	3	Direct instruction required
2	4	8	Direct supervision required
3	4	20	Some hours used coaching
4	4	30	Initial direct instruction required
5	6	40	Visits to 3 different walls required

Grades

It is not in the philosophy of the scheme to exclude participants by stating minimum graded performance criteria for levels 1-3 as their focus is upon knowledge and skill acquisition. However grade targets are undeniably motivational and related to skill development. Therefore trainers and assessors should set realistic grade targets for candidates to achieve and enter into their log book for assessment. Trainers should inform candidates not to log up lots of easy routes just to complete levels quickly. Assessors need to check carefully that candidates have logged quality routes for their ability and may wish to set minimum grade standards for entry into the log book. Minimum graded performance criteria are given at level 4 for safety reasons and at level 5 to introduce performance training. Higher targets can be set by trainers/assessors.

Level 1: Foundation Climber

Overview

This is an entry level award for candidates who wish to learn skills and achieve at a very basic level. This level focuses on a safety conscious attitude as much as climbing skills. It is designed to be easily achievable by any climber with aptitude in a short space of time, whilst remaining under the supervision of an instructor at all times. Generally a minimum of two climbing sessions would be required to achieve this level.

Training

Safety briefing

Trainers will need to stress the inherent hazards of climbing to candidates and judge whether these have been understood and appreciated. With minors an air of responsibility rather than play needs to be cultivated from the outset. Centre rules and expected behaviours need to be communicated and reinforced.

Preparation

Candidates need to be told about suitable clothing and footwear (rock shoes are not needed) as well as removing jewellery and tying back long hair.

Equipment

The correct method of putting on a harness and helmet should be explained though at this level some assistance with this is acceptable. Only one type of harness needs to be demonstrated (simple one-piece harnesses are good) but candidates must appreciate if it is being worn and buckled correctly. The harness belt should be around the waist, not the hips, and sufficiently tight. Leg loops should be appropriately adjusted. There should be no twists in the webbing and loose ends should be tucked away.

Warm ups

All candidates should participate in warm up exercises such as jogging on the spot, windmilling the arms etc. The reasons for this should be explained in a simple way. Stretching is not required at this level.

Connection to the rope

Candidates need to be taught where to connect the rope to the harness and how to tie a rethreaded figure of eight knot with a stopper knot. Considerable care will be needed to introduce this method at this level. There must be a tidy knot with a suitable length tail close to the harness with no loops created.

Belaying

Belaying at this level is only to be done under direct supervision. Any appropriate belay system may be used as long as it is efficient and safe. Tailing/backing up is acceptable but candidates should be able to manage an appropriate device (which could be an auto-locking device) on their own or with a peer under supervision. It is not expected for candidates to be fully competent for all situations nor to be totally independent. They must demonstrate a consistent safe attitude and awareness of the responsibility and skill required. Any successful peer belaying session where the trainer/assessor does not have to intervene should be seen as adequate for this level. If a candidate is mature enough to be taught to belay independently then this should be done if appropriate. Lowering of the climber does not have to be mastered at this level. This can be done, or be backed up, by the trainer.

Descending

Candidates should be taught how to descend correctly whilst being lowered by a belayer/ instructor. They should lean back holding only their end of the rope and walk down the wall.

Climbing movement

Candidates should be introduced to the most rudimentary principles of climbing movement: standing up straight and trying to maintain balance, looking at their feet when finding footholds, pushing up with the legs and relaxing.

Bouldering

If the climbing centre has a bouldering facility then its safe use could be introduced. Attention should be drawn to the risks of bouldering and minors participating at this level should always be supervised. Fall zones and safe descents should be highlighted. As this is statistically the highest risk activity with minors at a climbing centre, due care and attention should be paid to the briefing and supervision of candidates. Simple traverses are often the most appropriate activity at this level. Spotting is an advanced skill that is only introduced much later at level 5 in the scheme. It is not recommended to introduce this skill to youngsters at this stage.

Assessment

Assessment may take the form of continuous assessment during training. At this level assessors can exercise considerable latitude in their judgement of a candidate’s ability to satisfy the assessment criteria. This level is designed to enthuse and encourage participants to pursue climbing further rather than be a difficult hurdle. A positive and responsible attitude displayed by the candidate is just as important as any technical skill demonstrated.

Assessors should look for a candidate who can follow instructions willingly and consistently, can maintain concentration and work cooperatively with their peers. See the training notes for specific guidance on belaying standards.

Some simple questions on safety and centre rules, followed by a gearing up and warming up session, then a group bottom roping session with maybe a short bouldering exercise should suffice for an assessment. Bouldering is not a required activity for assessment however if facilities do not exist.

Assessment log components:

Awareness of safety rules and hazards
Put on harness and helmet correctly
Tie a retied figure of eight knot with stopper knot
Climb a chosen route with confidence
Descend from a route correctly
Belay safely under supervision
Demonstrate consistent safe behaviour
Complete 10 climbs of any grade (rainbow)
Complete 10 belays

Level 2: Top Rope Climber

Overview

This level is a key stage in a climber’s development. It is designed to correspond to most climbing centre’s ’membership’ standards. A level 2 holder should be a potentially independent top rope climber and boulderer. The BMC participation statement should be communicated to candidates and their parents/guardians if under 18. Some climbing centres may allow minors of a suitable age who have achieved this level to climb independently at their centre (with parental consent) or under some form of supervision. Consequently the assessment of this level needs to be much more rigorous than at level 1.

Many candidates may wish to purchase their own harness, belay device and rock shoes during or after this course and trainers need to equip them with the necessary knowledge to do this.

Training

Tying into the harness

Candidates need to understand how to tie into both a one piece and two piece harness (ie: with or without an abseil loop). The basic designs of a harness need to be explained along with their suitability for indoor climbing. In particular different harness buckle systems should be examined and their merits and weaknesses described.

Pre-climb checks

Candidates should be taught the importance of pre-climb checks and the common problems to look out for: twisted harnesses, loose or incorrectly adjusted harness, buckle systems not correctly doubled back or functioning properly They should tie in correctly with a long tail and stopper knot, with no loops and the knot close to the body. Karabiners should be screwed up (use a squeeze test), the belay device correctly threaded, orientated and appropriate for use. Candidates should be able to tie in another climber and correctly check their knot and harness.

Belaying

Candidates should be taught to belay correctly with a non-autolocking device. Other devices can be introduced including auto-locking devices for comparison but advice as to the most appropriate for use in this context should be given. (Gri Gris are not recommended at this stage as their use is counter-intuitive to standard belay devices and their lowering action is more difficult to control.) The belaying action needs to be of a high standard with a good degree of anticipation exhibited by the belayer. In particular the following points should be highlighted:

Correct stance and position (not too far out from the wall)
Correct attachment and orientation of belay device with the dead rope exiting the bottom of the device or to the side of the braking hand.
The principle of a 180Â° lock off on the rope
Taking in the rope with one hand always on the brake rope
Brake rope held in front of the body – not to one side (in abseil position)
Keeping the dead rope locked off as much as possible
Keeping hands in front of the rope – not passing them between the body and the rope
Smooth belaying action
Lowering with both hands held onto the brake rope at all times – no swapping of hands
Smooth lowering at a safe speed.

Ground anchors

Candidates need to know what to do if their climbing partner is of a significantly different weight to them. Trainers should introduce them to the options in ground anchor systems such as ground slings and ballast bags. The pros and cons of these should be discussed. Candidates also need to be able to assess the suitability of a belay system to suit the weight and frictional dynamics of the climber/rope/anchor systems they find themselves in. They also need to be able to judge if the situation is too difficult to belay safely.

Holding falls

Practical experience in holding a top rope fall is invaluable to give candidates the feedback they need to make decisions detailed above. All practice falls must be done with an instructor backing up the belayer until deemed ready to do it safely without back-up. Falls should not be big; there should be very little slack rope – just enough to show that the system works.

Communication

Traditional climbing calls are inappropriate on most artificial climbing structures. However a clear process of communication between partners and awareness of the climber’s needs on behalf of the belayer should be developed.

Grades

The French sport grading system (most commonly adopted in climbing walls) should be explained and candidates encouraged to determine their current climbing ability through choosing and attempting routes of various grades.

Climbing technique

Candidates should be coached in elementary climbing movement and technique: using holds in an efficient manner, having an upright relaxed stance with heels dropped, concentrating on good foot placement, planning moves before execution and moving smoothly in balance using the leg muscles and resting on straight arms. Climbing shoes are not necessary at this level but would be highly desirable to teach proper footwork at this early and influential stage. The concept of balance and coordinated movement are fundamental here. Climbing games on a bouldering wall or exercises on the wall to develop basic technique can be of great benefit.

Bouldering

It is highly desirable that candidates should be introduced to bouldering at this stage. Instructors should attempt to provide low level traverses on their climbing wall if they do not have a purpose made bouldering facility. Candidates need to be taught the appropriate skills to become safe and effective independent boulderers. Safe heights, correct attire, climbing within one’s limits, awareness of other users, controlled descent, selection of appropriate problems and a simple explanation of sports injury avoidance should be covered.

Assessment

Candidates need to be faultless and consistent in the basic skills of putting on equipment, tying on, belaying, lowering and communicating with their partner. In particular the emphasis of this level is on sound and safe belaying. Assessors should be looking for someone who they would be happy to leave alone to top rope with a competent peer. (However centres will have their own policies as to whether this may actually happen with minors of various ages).

Candidates need to have developed sound risk awareness in the climbing wall environment and have a mature and careful attitude to safety.

If there are no dedicated bouldering facilities at the climbing centre the award can still be gained though it would be highly beneficial to have experience of this activity. If there are bouldering facilities candidates need to have developed a safe approach to the activity and be able to seek out their own problems.

Assessment log components:

Connect rope to harness with retied figure 8 and stopper knot consistently
Consistently performs pre-climb checks
Can hold a simple top rope fall
Belays consistently correctly
Lowers a climber consistently correctly
Communicates well with climber
Understanding of French sport grades and selection of appropriate routes
Safe and effective use of a bouldering/ traversing wall
Complete 25 set climbs of any grade
Complete 25 belays

Level 3: Technical Climber

Overview

This level concentrates on climbing technique and movement with some additional knowledge on equipment. Bouldering is a key component of this level and a suitable venue that provides a wide range of bouldering challenges is essential to deliver both training and assessment. Traditionally there has been very little input of this area into instructor training in the UK and trainers may feel they need additional support before passing on these skills to others. It is recommended that trainers should attend a formal coaching course such as the BMC’s FUNdamentals course or an in-house course designed by a suitably experienced Technical Advisor. Many articles, books and DVDs have been produced on this subject (see appendix) and a Technical Advisor should be able to lend advice if necessary. It is hoped that as well as formerly teaching technique and movement, trainers will be able to coach candidates individually to some degree, in order to motivate them and develop their climbing potential.

Training

Equipment

A more in-depth look at climbing equipment should help candidates think about the systems that support their performance. Candidates should be introduced to different harness designs, their pros and cons, suitability for different uses, care and maintenance. They should also be taught how to evaluate their condition for use. Types of rock shoes, construction and fitting should be covered as well as the various chalk options that are used for increasing friction on the hands. The possible health and environmental problems of using chalk indoors and outdoors should be discussed. Helmet design and their appropriate use should be discussed.

Knots

Candidates should learn how to tie all the knots listed in the syllabus and understand their uses, characteristics and limitations. These knots are introduced here as they can be used for ground anchors, attachments and safety back ups in addition to the retied figure of eight.

Belaying

Candidates should be introduced to a wide variety of belay devices that are suitable and commonly used on climbing walls. They should be able to evaluate their frictional properties and understand how the whole belay system depends upon rope, device and karabiner properties. They should be given practical experience in using these devices and be able to evaluate and choose an appropriate device for their use. Gri Gris or similar devices may be introduced at this stage though they are not recommended for unsupervised use for the reasons given earlier. The correct use of these and the hazards of lowering too fast should be explained carefully.

Climbing techniques

Candidates should be introduced to the wide array of techniques that are available to the modern climber in using the available holds on a climb. A list of suggested techniques are detailed below:

Hand holds: Crimp, half-crimp, hang, slopers, pockets, pinch, jams
Hold orientations: Side-pull, 'gastons', under-cuts
Footholds: Edge, smear, pocket, heel hook, toe hook
Basic moves: laybacking, chimneying, palming, bridging, mantleshelfing, rockovers, cross-throughs, twisting, flagging, foot-swapping, knee bars, arm bars, 'frog' position, deadpointing, dynos, resting (with the use of opposing forces, straight arms, relaxed grip)

Trainers will need to choose those that are appropriate to the candidate’s ability and applicable to the facility in which they are working. These techniques are best introduced at ground level on a bouldering wall where candidates can observe the trainer and their peers close up. The bouldering wall is an excellent venue for coaching. Later the techniques can be applied on routes.

Movement skills

As well as teaching individual techniques, trainers need to train good movement skills to their candidates. Full guidance on this is beyond the scope of this handbook but key principles that need to be covered are listed below:

Maintaining balance and an awareness of one’s centre of gravity
Reading moves ahead
Accurate and controlled footwork
Full use of legs and feet for propulsion
Fluidity of movement – moving in balance
Use of opposing forces for balance
Relaxed grip and posture (use of the skeleton)
Ability to spot rests and use correct resting style
Assuming correct body position for movement off holds
Use of body tension and core strength on steep ground
Position of the hips close to wall on steep ground
Correct breathing – aerobic/anaerobic

Reference to supporting materials on technique and performance training can be found in the appendices. It is important that candidates are introduced to the techniques and principles early on and then coached both on the bouldering wall and on routes. The use of multi-move circuits on a simple bouldering wall or training board can be a very useful tool. The aim is to develop smooth coordinated movement that candidates can transfer to boulder problems and climbing routes.

Consolidation

Candidates will need considerable time to practice and develop these techniques on both the bouldering wall and on routes. This is reflected in the time commitment required at this level. Candidates need to be advised to log up quality routes for their ability rather than to race through any number of easy routes. Minimum grades can be set by instructors to achieve this.

Session structure

Trainers should include in their programme a clear structure to a climbing session so that candidates can attain their best performance and avoid injury. (The BMC issues a poster to cover the basic principles of this). The importance of warming up and stretching correctly before a performance climbing session should be emphasised, as well as climbing to a peak and warming down and resting to allow the body to recover. Much more stress will come onto fingers and tendons at this level and specific advice on warming up these areas and guarding against injury should be given.

Background knowledge

Finally candidates should be encouraged to explore the world of climbing beyond the particular centre that they are registered with. Trainers should introduce candidates to popular climbing websites, and at least one climbing film. A suggested list of websites is to be found in the appendix.

Assessment

Now that candidates should be able to operate at an independent or remotely supervised level, assessors do not need to witness all their climbing. The logged climbs and boulder problems can be done by the candidate independently as long as their maximum performance has been observed and recorded at the beginning and end of the consolidation period.

Candidates need to demonstrate that they have improved their performance by one full grade (eg: from F6a to F6a+) on top roped climbs over the whole consolidation period. Assessors need to check that candidates have logged routes matched to their ability. Candidates should not log up many easy routes quickly just to satisfy the requirements.

Boulder problems are difficult to grade objectively across centres but the assessor must satisfy themself that the candidate’s performance has improved. If a centre has its own grading system for bouldering this will be relatively easy.

Candidates need to demonstrate knowledge of a range of climbing techniques and be able to apply appropriate ones in various climbing contexts. They should be able to demonstrate the skilful execution of a range of these. It is suggested that the assessor should ask the candidate to demonstrate five named techniques from the syllabus list on a bouldering wall or a route. The assessor should make sure that these techniques are applicable on the climbing surfaces available. If a candidate fails to understand or perform a particular technique they should be given up to three alternative techniques to demonstrate before the assessment is terminated for that session.

Finally a quick informal interview should ascertain whether the candidate has watched a climbing film and visited two websites as required. For both the candidate needs to demonstrate that they have learnt from these experiences. For the film they should be able to give some simple analysis of the performance they watched â€“ What made the climber so good? What techniques did they employ? How motivated did they appear? The website search can be used to research some relevant climbing knowledge â€“ location of other climbing walls, competitions, news items, equipment reviews etc.

Assessment log components:

Complete a minimum of 30 logged top rope climbs
Demonstrate progression of at least one full grade on top roped climbs
Have knowledge of and demonstrate the use of three different belay devices
Demonstrate detailed knowledge of basic indoor climbing equipment
Demonstrate and explain 5 warming up exercises
Complete a minimum of 20 boulder problems demonstrating improvement
Demonstrate and explain 5 different climbing techniques
Tie figure 8 on the bight, overhand knot and clove hitch
Watch and describe a climbing film/video
Visit two climbing related websites and retrieve requested information

Level 4: Lead Climber

Overview

This level introduces candidates to lead climbing with all its attendant risks and required skills. Candidates who gain this level should be capable of lead climbing to their limit and in control at most lead climbing walls in the UK. Minimum performance grades are introduced at this level as it is felt that a certain level of physical ability is required to lead safely on steep routes that are less likely to lead to injury in case of a fall. Lead climbing carries higher risks and responsibilities for both climber and belayer and trainers and assessors need to be aware of the increased levels of risk assessment needed for both teaching and performing this activity. The SPA, CWA and most site-specific instructor schemes do not cover the teaching of lead climbing, therefore the advice from a Technical Advisor and the institution of proper procedures derived from a risk assessment are essential here. Specific consent for the activity of lead climbing to under 18s should be obtained from parents/guardians of participants.

Training

Hazards

Trainers should explain the potential hazards of lead climbing at the beginning of any course. (The consequences of a spinning hold become much more significant for example.)The BMC statement and the BMC’s Parent’s Guide could be re-communicated to candidates in this context and their parents/guardians if appropriate.

The rope

The role of the rope in climbing systems should be discussed. This needs to cover the construction, strengths, uses and shock absorbing properties of fully dynamic ropes, low stretch gym ropes and static ropes. They should also be taught to appreciate the difference between different diameter single ropes. Candidates should be taught how to coil a rope using lap coils and the use of rope bags. They should also be taught to inspect the rope for damage and handling quality and be able to judge its condition for use and suitability for a given indoor climbing activity. Care and maintenance of the rope needs to be discussed also. Recommendations for buying ropes for indoor leading could be made at this point.

Quickdraws

The use, selection and racking of quickdraws on the harness should be covered. Many walls have in-situ quickdraws on their lead wall but candidates need to be introduced to the use of loose quickdraws also. Different designs and their pros and cons should be covered (bent and straight gates, solid and wired gates, captive snap karabiners, length of extender, crabs with pulleys etc). The care, maintenance and retirement of karabiners and tapes should be discussed.

Warm ups

The approach to a lead climbing session should be covered with an emphasis on warming up both physically and mentally before lead climbing near or at personal upper limits. Top roping and red pointing can help here.

Lead belaying

Lead belaying requires a much more attentive and active approach than top roping and trainers should reinforce this by emphasising the following points:

The belayer should always pay attention to their climber
The belayer should stand in a braced position ready to move or resist movement quickly.
The belayer should stand close to the wall and to one side of the leader at the beginning.
Little slack should be played out until the third clip.
At this point the belayer can step back a little and leave more slack in the system. Above the third clip it may be better to let the climber fall a little further and avoid slamming them into the wall.
The belayer should anticipate the climber’s need for more or less rope and pay out or take in accordingly. Ideally the climber should never feel the pull of the rope, even while clipping.
After the third clip the belayer can step forwards and backwards to help pay the correct amount of rope out or take in.
The belayer should pay careful attention to see if the climber has clipped the lower off properly before taking in slack to support the climber before lowering.

Candidates should be given experience of belaying with a variety of belay devices and critically evaluate their use. They should be taught to belay with non-auto locking devices but may also be introduced to the correct use of auto-locking devices such as the Gri Gri.

Holding leader falls

Acceptable lead belaying requires that the belayer can hold a leader fall. This should be practiced in a highly controlled environment taking due care for all the participants’ safety including other centre users. A small fall with the climber close to a clipped quickdraw should be taken with the trainer backing up the belay. This will give the candidate some indication of the forces that are typically involved in a leader fall. It should be explained that taking in slack during a fall is poor practice as it will result in the climber slamming into the wall and increases fall factors. Dynamic belaying is beyond the scope of this level. A discussion on relative weights of partners and the use of ground anchors may be useful at this point.

Lead climbing

Teaching lead climbing should be done in incremental stages. Ideally a classroom session at ground level should first cover the technique of clipping the rope into running belays correctly from rest. This should cover good body position and resting on a straight arm, one handed clipping technique, clipping lower off anchors and the hazards of back-clipping and z-clipping. Clipping should never be done whilst moving, especially with rope held in the teeth.

From here lead climbing can be practiced on easy routes with an additional slack top rope until the basic procedures have been absorbed. From there climbers may proceed without a top rope but with the trainer providing back up on the belay. Eventually the trainer must judge when it is safe to step back and supervise/coach indirectly. There must be little risk of the climber falling off in the early stages of training. The instructor should choose appropriate routes for teaching carefully, balancing fall potential with the consequences of such a fall.

Checks and communication

Throughout the session pre-climb checks and the importance of good observation and communication between climbing partners should be reinforced.

Assessment

Whilst lead climbing candidates must climb smoothly and clip running belays from rest without fumbling or lunging. The climb does not have to be done on sight but does need to be ascended without rests on the rope.

Assessors need to look for consistent and suitably skilled lead belayers that they would be happy to be belayed by on a hard climb! If you would be happy for them to belay you when you know you may take a leader fall then they are good enough.

Candidates also need to climb at F5c(5+) standard on top rope. Again this does not have to be on sight but must be ascended without rests and with no assistance from the rope.

Assessment log components

Demonstrate knowledge of rope types, their care, coiling and maintenance.
Demonstrate understanding of the hazards and risks of lead climbing.
Lead belay proficiently with appropriate selection of belay device
Safely hold a leader fall
Lead climb fluidly clipping all quickdraws correctly
Improve lead climbing ability by one grade
Complete 30 lead climbs at F5a(5) or above
Complete 30 lead belays
Complete 10 top rope climbs at F5c(5+) or above

Level 5: Advanced Climber

Overview

The emphasis of this level is to focus on improved performance and knowledge of the wider world of climbing. This level will not be achievable by all candidates. A holder of this level will have achieved a high level of performance, knowledge and motivation through considerable effort over many months. Anyone achieving this level may naturally be looking beyond the bounds of wall climbing and bouldering to greater challenges in the world of climbing. For this reason both trainers and assessors working on this level need to have a considerable breadth and depth of experience of rock climbing in all its disciplines to be able to inform and motivate candidates. Trainers need to possess well developed coaching skills and would normally have had experience of leading routes both indoors and outdoors at F6b standard or above.

Training for performance is a complex area with particular risks for young climbers who are more prone to injuries, burnout and post-viral fatigue if they do not rest sufficiently. Great care should therefore be taken in advising on a training programme for them. It is beyond the scope of these guidelines to give full details of training programmes though there are some good sources of information listed in the appendix. The ABCTT will provide trainer workshops for this course.

At this level instructors will often be acting as coaches and so providing a rigid training structure is unlikely to be appropriate. The provision of coaching is underdeveloped in climbing at present and it is hoped that the guidance for this level will develop over time as coaching develops in the sport. The ABCTT hopes to post downloadable guidance and resources on its website as they become available. Below are some suggested areas for coaching more advanced technique and training but the experience of the trainer and coaching needs of the participant will determine the exact coaching undertaken.

Technique

Revisit level 3 techniques and movement principles

Advanced steep routes: Twist-locking, outside edges, drop-knees, flagging, deadpointing, use of slopers, low percentage jumps.
Advanced movement skills: Breathing, move memory, kinaesthetic awareness, route reading from the floor

Tactics

The differing tactics of onsighting and redpointing could be explained and coached as appropriate.

Training for performance

Training programmes should be discussed using the following criteria as a guideline:

Strength/Power training: Appropriate bouldering (steep walls with small holds), pull-up bar work and body tension exercises, campus boards (* see warning below), system training.
Power endurance and Stamina training: Interval training on routes and/ or circuits
Antagonist training: weights or floor exercises for â€˜oppositionâ€™ muscles
Cardiovascular fitness: supportive aerobic / cross training (running etc)
Flexibility: stretching exercises
Basic periodised training principles: Peaking and use of prioritised training cycles to target goals and/or weaknesses. Rest phases, pre-phase conditioning and post-phase tapering.

Basic nutritional guidelines and the importance of hydration should be discussed.

The candidate’s performance should be analysed and actions suggested for improvement. The focus should be on improving technique through climbing and bouldering regularly. The use of top roping, leading, bouldering, multi-move circuit training and the study of other climbers’ performances should be used to achieve this

Great care should be taken with coaching young climbers for performance. Soft tissues and joints often have not fully developed and irreparable damage can occur if they are pushed to far. Tendons, in particular, take far longer than muscles to build up and intensive exercises on these (such as finger boards and campusing) put huge strains on them. Advice should be given on safe training such as:

Do not create high muscle and joint forces (such as with full body dynos)
Allow sufficient rest between training sessions
Slow, low-intensity exercise is best
Do not make movements repetitive
Keep cool and hydrated
Climb on a variety of surfaces and angles
Mix up the training – do not be too specific or intense (such as using fingerboards).

Sports injuries

The topic of sports injuries should be covered in a non-technical way. Candidates need to know the common injuries to fingers, elbows, shoulders, back, and ankles that climbing hard and falling create. They need to know how to minimise the likelihood of them occurring and how best to manage simple injuries (eg: Rest, Ice, Compression and Elevation, followed by nutritional supplements, massage, stretching and gentle exercise to break down scar tissue). The use of taping fingers and supports for weakened tendons should be covered.

Mental training

Some time should be spent looking at mental techniques to improve performance. Relaxation and focusing techniques are important tools for achieving higher performance. Trainers may wish to introduce techniques from disciplines such as Neuro-Linguistic Programming, yoga or visualisation strategies. Candidates should participate in at least one bouldering and one lead competition to experience the mental support and pressures that these create.

Taking falls

Anxiety of falling should be addressed if it is holding back a candidate’s performance. Some of the mental strategies mentioned above may help with this but a process of taking controlled falls may help also. The ability of a candidate to push to their physical limit and then relax while in flight without grabbing at holds, ropes or quickdraws should be addressed. Trainers who can give dynamic belays will help this process. Careful risk assessment should be done when planning larger falls on the lead. These should always take place on a steep and high section of the wall.

Dynamic belaying

Good lead belaying requires a dynamic element if the leader is not to slam into the climbing wall. Trainers must exercise extremely good judgement as to whether it is appropriate to introduce this skill to individual candidates. Done well it reduces risk, done badly it increases risk. Trainers need to make sure that candidates have the correct attitude and sufficient maturity to be trained in this skill. Dynamic belaying does not mean competition belaying where large amounts of rope are allowed to pass through the belay device upon a fall. It means that sufficient slack should be paid out and the movement of the belayerâ€™s body should be enough to allow the climber to drop more vertically and come to a decelerated rest. Candidates should be taught when and at what appropriate climber’s height dynamic belaying should be used.

Bouldering

Candidates should be introduced to the technique of spotting in bouldering. Care should be taken to adopt a correct stance, correct position relative to the boulderer, correct movement to guide a falling boulderer and to know the effective limits of spotting.

Equipment

The concept of the safety chain should be introduced to the candidates with a simple explanation of impact forces, fall factors, equipment ratings and the successive absorption of energy by the system. They should have a simple understanding of CE marking of PPE. Candidates should be introduced to an outdoor leading rack and have its basic uses explained.

Knots

The use of a bowline for tying in to the rope should be covered with its characteristics, benefits and weaknesses explained, whilst emphasising the importance of a stopper knot.

Knowledge of outdoor climbing

Candidates are expected to have an appreciation of rock climbing on real rock and to understand how it differs from wall climbing. Trainers should place indoor climbing and its development into the wider context of the UK climbing scene. This could take the form of a discussion, sharing experiences, a slide presentation, the use of film or a practical session outdoors if appropriate. Candidates do not need to be taught how to rock climb on natural crags as this is beyond the remit of the scheme. Advice could be given as to suitable courses/ ways of gaining experience for motivated candidates who wish to progress beyond the scheme. Trainers should explain the difference between sport and traditional climbing.

Background knowledge

Candidates at this level need to know more about the background and context of UK climbing. Trainers should explain the styles, ethics and history of the rich variety of climbing to be had in the UK and abroad. Slide shows and videos could help with this. The UK grading system should be explained. Candidates should also be introduced to the role of the relevant home nation Mountaineering Council.

The way ahead

Finally candidates should be advised about the options for the way ahead. Further training courses, the competition scene, National Governing Body instructor awards, careers in climbing related industries, the UK club system and information sources should all be discussed.

Assessment

The main requirements to gaining the level are to complete the stipulated log book experience. The log book requirements are stated clearly in the syllabus and assessment criteria section. Candidates are expected to have lead climbed at a minimum of two other climbing walls during their consolidation period. Assessors need to examine the log book carefully and to quiz the candidates on its contents to establish its veracity. If there is any doubt about levels of performance assessors should ask to observe the candidate climb or boulder an appropriate route. Candidates would be expected to climb fluidly to their limit and take a leader fall (not rest) at this level.

In addition to this assessors need to quiz candidates on their knowledge of the background to UK climbing as described in the training section above. This should be done by written paper and is an important component at this level. It may be appropriate to set this task as a home paper to encourage the candidate to research and broaden their knowledge. If necessary assistance in reading questions and writing answers may be given by the assessor â€“ this is not a test of written English.

Candidates should also prepare and deliver a short presentation on a topic related to the level 5 syllabus of about ten minutes duration. Considerable latitude as to the format should be given. A practical demonstration, a talk, an essay, a film, a slide or powerpoint presentation are all acceptable. At the end they should be able to answer questions related to their presentation. The purpose of the presentation is to assess the candidate’s understanding of the training process that they have undergone at this level. Presentation skills are not to be assessed â€“ just the content.

A poor performance on these tasks may require the candidate to repeat all or part of the exercise.

Assessment log components:

Tie a bowline and stopper knot
Pass a written test on climbing general knowledge
Prepare and deliver a presentation on a climbing topic
Spot a climbing partner effectively on a bouldering wall
Participate in a climbing or bouldering competition
Complete 50 lead climbs at F6a or above using 3 climbing centres
Improve leading ability by at least one full grade
Complete 10 top rope climbs at F6b or above
Complete 50 boulder problems showing progression

Appendices