NICAS Handbook

Prospectus

Rationale and philosophy of the Scheme

  1. The National Indoor Climbing Achievement Scheme is designed to provide a structure for complete novices through to experienced indoor climbers for learning the skills associated with climbing on artificial climbing walls. It provides a structured programme of training and development in the sport that can be followed to a range of levels.
  2. The Scheme aims to promote good practice, deeper knowledge of the sport and provide a structure for climbing development. The emphasis is on acquiring skills and developing progression rather than graded performance. Centres may wish to run their own graded performance systems alongside this scheme.
  3. The Scheme is open to candidates of nearly all ages and abilities. No upper age limit has been stipulated though it is envisaged that the levels will appeal most to youth and those who are new to the sport.
  4. The levels are not qualifications in any sense but seek to accredit achievement and development in the sport of climbing. There is no direct correlation between the levels of the Scheme and individual centres’ admission procedures. All level holders will still have to satisfy any individual climbing centre’s own registration procedures.

Remit and scope of the Scheme

  1. The minimum age for registration onto the scheme is 7. The scheme is designed for anyone with the aptitude to learn how to climb independently on artificial climbing structures. Individual centres will need to assess the suitability of each candidate to attempt each level.
  2. The aims of the scheme are:
    1. to develop climbing movement skills and improve levels of ability.
    2. to learn climbing rope-work and how to use equipment appropriately.
    3. to develop risk assessment and risk management skills in the sport.
    4. to work as a team, communicate with, and trust a climbing partner.
    5. to provide a structure for development, motivation and improved performance.
    6. to develop an understanding of the sport, it’s history and future challenges
    7. to provide a record of personal achievement.
    8. to point the way to further disciplines and challenges in climbing beyond the scheme.
  3. NICAS is fully transferable between awarding centres but is independent of their registration procedures. The scheme recognises achievement, experience and knowledge observed at a particular centre(s) on particular dates. The levels awarded do not necessarily confer membership at that centre, nor at any other centre.
  4. Level holders are recognised by the ABCTT as having demonstrated consistent good practice and required skills and knowledge at each of the five levels.
  5. 5. The scheme does not cover the teaching of rock climbing skills in the natural environment, though an experience of outdoor climbing and bouldering is particularly beneficial at the highest level of the scheme.

Structure of the Scheme

  1. The scheme is split into five levels. Each level follows the same basic stages:
    1. Register with an approved Awarding Centre and be issued with a log book (or booklet).
    2. Attend a training course at that centre.
    3. Continue to consolidate experience according to the level requirements and record this appropriately.
    4. Attend an assessment course or complete continuous assessment as appropriate.
    5. Continue to gain and log climbing experience in preparation for the next level if required.
  2. The five levels are designed to introduce complete novices to the sport of artificial wall climbing and aid progress through to becoming lead climbers with a sound understanding of the skills and knowledge of good practice in the climbing wall environment.
  3. The levels are:
    1. Foundation climber – an entry level award aimed at novices, which recognises their ability to climb safely under supervision.
    2. Top rope climber – aimed at promoting good practice in climbing and bouldering independently on an artificial wall.
    3. Technical climber – a more advanced top roping and bouldering award that focuses on developing technique and movement skills.
    4. Lead climber – concentrating on the skills required to both lead climb and lead belay proficiently.
    5. Advanced climber – the top level award that focuses on improving performance, a deeper understanding of climbing systems and the wider world of climbing.
  4. Levels 1 and 2 require qualified supervision and are documented and recorded in a NICAS booklet. Levels 3 to 5 are pursued in a more independent fashion with instruction and coaching offered at appropriate times. The candidates record their progress in a separate NICAS log book into which the level1/2 booklet clips in.

Registration

  1. In order for a candidate to participate in the scheme they must first register with an Awarding Centre. Awarding Centres will be registered with NICAS and their details can be found on the NICAS website.
  2. Candidates may enter the scheme at any level but will have to demonstrate to their Awarding Centre that they are ready to undertake the level or can satisfy the assessment criteria of the previous level before they can participate at their chosen level.
  3. Registration onto the scheme is made directly with the Awarding Centre and will not involve any administration with the ABCTT or any external body. There is a standard fee for registration to cover administration and material costs. Upon registering, the candidate will receive a log book with full details of the whole scheme and all necessary log pages. Should additional log pages be required these can be photocopied or downloaded from the NICAS website and added to the log book.
  4. If individuals or groups only wish to participate in Levels 1 and 2 of the scheme then they may purchase the part 1 booklet at a reduced rate as the rest of the log book is not required at these levels.

Training courses

  1. Training courses and all supporting materials are to be provided by the Awarding Centre. Each Awarding Centre will design and deliver its own training courses to satisfy the requirements of the syllabus for each level of the scheme. Guidance is offered to trainers later in this handbook for the delivery of these courses. The guidance describes minimum standards for the levels and trainers may choose to train to higher standards for suitable candidates.
  2. Awarding Centres may charge independently for training courses and any supplementary materials.

The log book and consolidation periods

  1. For all levels in the scheme a log book is issued and candidates will need to record their climbing experience in it. There is no requirement for candidates to use this outside the climbing centre for levels 1-4 and centres may wish to retain these for younger candidate.
  2. Each achievement level requires the candidates to complete a minimum number of climbs/ boulder problems. These need to be recorded by the candidate for inspection at assessment.
  3. The consolidation period for each level is important as it allows candidates to become familiar with new techniques and to develop fitness and skills.
  4. Each of the levels in the scheme has guideline hours of climbing activity described for them. These represent the suggested climbing time that would be required by a mature, skilled and knowledgeable candidate to complete each level. The guideline hours include any training and /or instructed time. It should be noted that the hours stated for each level are considered minimum times and that candidates may need to develop their skills over a longer period before being ready for assessment.

Assessment

  1. Candidates should be registered at the Awarding Centre that they wish to be assessed at. If a candidate wishes to be assessed at a new centre from that which they trained at, they should re-register with the new centre. There is no additional cost for this.
  2. Each Awarding Centre will design and run its own assessment courses to satisfy the requirements for each level of the scheme. Guidance is offered to assessors later in this handbook on the criteria for these assessments. The delivery of the assessments may take the form of a formal course run by the centre or a more continuous assessment.
  3. For each level there will be a standard assessment log that will need to be completed in the presence of an assessor. This log will detail the assessment elements for that level and will require the assessor to witness the candidate’s completion of these. Upon successful completion of each element the assessor will sign and date the relevant section in the log.
  4. When all the elements of a level have been satisfied (and an assessor has signed them off) the pass certificate for that level will be awarded to the candidate.
  5. Pass certificates will be awarded by the Awarding Centre and are accredited by the ABCTT.
  6. If the candidate fails to satisfy any of the assessment criteria the assessor will debrief them and offer remedial strategies for improvement. There is no time limit or limit to the number of assessment attempts a candidate may wish to make.

Primary Centres

A network of Primary Centres will provide advice and training for other Awarding Centres as well as supplying log books and certificates. These centres will provide induction workshops for Course Directors (see Requirements for Awarding Centres) and deliver level 5 coaching for candidates. Only Primary Centres can award level 5 certificates. At present a Primary Centre must be an ABC member wall. A list of Primary Centres and their details can be accessed on the NICAS website.

Transferability between centres

  1. The scheme is fully transferable between Awarding Centres. Candidates may register for different levels of the scheme at different Awarding Centres and may also complete a level at a different centre from the one they started it at. National certificates will be awarded for each completed level by the Awarding Centre carrying out the assessment.
  2. Upon transferring to a new Awarding Centre to register for another level the candidate may have to satisfy the new centre that they are ready to take this level. Any new climbing centre should satisfy itself that the candidate is ready to progress to the next level and that this is an appropriate step. The holding of any achievement level does not necessarily imply competency.

Equal Opportunities

The ABCTT is committed to promoting equal opportunities for all participants in climbing. The scheme is designed to be open to all with the aptitude to undertake the described activities at each level with due regard for their own and others’ safety. Candidates, trainers and assessors should express a positive attitude towards equal opportunities and act as positive role models.

Complaints and Appeals Procedure

  1. NICAS is subject to continuous monitoring, culminating in annual reviews by the board of the ABCTT. Candidates and supporting organisations with feedback on their courses are encouraged to submit written comments to the Awarding Centre or the ABCTT.
  2. If for any reason a candidate or supporting organisation finds it necessary to complain about an aspect of their training or assessment then they should contact the Course Director at the Awarding Centre or the NICAS Officer at the ABCTT.
  3. If a candidate feels that aspects of their assessment were unfair they should:
    1. make contact with the Course Director, explain their concerns and seek clarification.
    2. If this does not resolve their concerns, contact the Secretary of the ABCTT for advice.
  4. Appeals must be made in writing to the ABCTT within 60 days from the end of the assessment. The decision of the Board will be final.


Requirements for Awarding Centres