NICAS Handbook

Syllabus and assessment criteria

Level 1: Foundation climber

  1. Content:
    1. Awareness of safety rules and hazards, appropriate dress and behavior
    2. Putting on a harness and helmet correctly
    3. Participate in warm ups
    4. Connecting harness to rope with a retied figure of 8 knot with stopper knot.
    5. Climbing a chosen route with confidence
    6. Safe belaying under supervision
    7. Correct method of descending by climber
    8. Basic climbing moves
  2. Assessment criteria:
    1. Awareness of safety rules and hazards.
    2. Put on harness and helmet correctly.
    3. Tie a retied figure of eight knot with stopper knot.
    4. Climb a chosen route with confidence.
    5. Descend from a route correctly.
    6. Belay safely under supervision.
    7. Demonstrate consistent safe behaviour.
    8. Complete 10 climbs of any grade (rainbow).
    9. Complete 10 belays.

Level 2: Top rope climber

  1. Content:
    1. Connecting self and others to rope with a retied figure of eight knot and stopper knot
    2. Pre-climb checks
    3. Belaying and lowering using a suitable belay device
    4. Ground anchor systems
    5. Holding a fall in a bottom rope situation (belayer on ground with rope passing through top anchor)
    6. Effective communication and teamwork with climbing partner
    7. Knowledge of indoor climbing (French sport) and bouldering grades
    8. Selection of appropriate routes
    9. Effective safe use of a bouldering/ traversing wall (if applicable)
    10. Simple climbing technique – the use of feet and legs, relaxed upright stance, confident approach, smooth movement and observation of holds.
  2. Assessment criteria:
    1. Connect rope to harness with retied figure 8 and stopper knot consistently.
    2. Consistently performs pre-climb checks.
    3. Belays consistently correctly.
    4. Can safely hold a simple top rope fall.
    5. Lowers a climber consistently correctly.
    6. Communicates well with climber.
    7. Understanding of French sport grades and selection of appropriate routes.
    8. Safe and effective use of a bouldering/ traversing wall.
    9. Complete 25 set climbs of any grade.
    10. Complete 25 belays.

Level 3: Technical climber

  1. Content:
    1. Knowledge of different harness types, helmets, rock shoes and belay devices – including the ability to evaluate their condition and ensure appropriate care and maintenance.
    2. Knots – figure of eight on the bight, clove hitch, overhand.
    3. Belaying using a variety of devices and choice of appropriate device.
    4. Knowledge of a wide range of appropriate climbing techniques
    5. Principles of good climbing movement
    6. The structure of a climbing session – warming up exercises, stretching, gentle climbing, peaking, warming down, rest
    7. Climbing websites, literature, magazines and films
  2. Assessment criteria:
    1. Complete a minimum of 30 further logged top rope climbs.
    2. Demonstrate progression of at least one full grade on top roped climbs.
    3. Have knowledge of and demonstrate the use of different belay devices
    4. Demonstrate detailed knowledge of basic indoor climbing equipment
    5. Demonstrate and explain 5 warming up exercises
    6. Complete a minimum of 20 boulder problems demonstrating improvement.
    7. Demonstrate and explain 5 different climbing techniques.
    8. Tie figure 8 on the bight, overhand knot and clove hitch
    9. Watch and describe a climbing film/video.
    10. Visit two climbing related websites and retrieve requested information.

Level 4: Lead Climber

  1. Content:
    1. The hazards of lead climbing
    2. Climbing ropes – types, uses, construction, coiling and maintenance
    3. Knowledge of quickdraws and racking on harness
    4. Warming up – mentally and physically
    5. Lead belaying with appropriate belay devices
    6. Holding a leader fall
    7. Correct use of the rope whilst clipping running belays (back clipping, z clipping etc)
    8. Efficient movement and clipping from rest
    9. Clipping in and lowering off
    10. Effective communication with climbing partner
  2. Assessment criteria:
    1. Demonstrate knowledge of rope types, their care, coiling and maintenance.
    2. Demonstrate understanding of the hazards and risks of lead climbing.
    3. Lead belay proficiently with appropriate selection of belay device.
    4. Safely hold a leader fall.
    5. Lead climb fluidly clipping all quickdraws correctly.
    6. Improve lead climbing ability by one grade.
    7. Complete 30 lead climbs at F5a(5) or above.
    8. Complete 30 lead belays.
    9. Complete 10 top rope climbs at F5c(5+) or above.

Level 5: Advanced Climber

  1. Content:
    1. Improved performance & training
    2. Sports injury avoidance and management
    3. Mental techniques for improved performance
    4. Competition climbing
    5. Taking falls and advanced belaying
    6. Spotting for bouldering
    7. Knowledge of climbing equipment ratings, impact forces, fall factors and the safety chain.
    8. Knots – bowline
    9. Knowledge of outdoor climbing
    10. UK climbing styles, ethics, history, and the Mountaineering Councils
    11. Options for the way ahead – branches of climbing, training courses, NGB awards, careers, information sources, the UK club system.
  2. Assessment criteria:
    1. Complete a minimum of 50 logged lead climbs – all at F6a or above – over three different climbing centres
    2. Demonstrate improvement of at least one grade in lead climbing.
    3. Complete a minimum of 10 logged top rope climbs at F6b or above
    4. Complete a minimum of 50 boulder problems showing progression
    5. Tie a bowline and stopper knot and understand its uses and limitations
    6. Demonstrate background knowledge on UK climbing history, issues, equipment and the Mountaineering Councils
    7. Prepare and deliver a short presentation on a climbing topic.
    8. Spot a climbing partner effectively on a bouldering wall
    9. Have participated in a climbing or bouldering competition.


Guidance notes for Trainers and Assessors